Last Sunday, April 6, 2008, I spent most of the morning moving into my new RV travel trailer and finally said “phooey” with it when my back started complaining. I’ve been cooped up by weather for the last 2½ months, so played hooky by heading out to Bandelier Nat. Mon. to see if I could get some shots of the elusive Abert’s Squirrel. Here’s a poor shot from last year…………….

Also called the “Tassel Eared Squirrel” because of the long hairy fringes on its’ ears. Pretty little guys, and very spooky. I took some peanut butter with me this time to smear on a log, hoping the fragrance would entice one to come and investigate. Nope. Sat there for 1½ hours and no joy. While sitting, in desperation I got to reading the map and pamphlet they hand out at the entrance. Turns out that on the way home, just before coming to the little town of White Rock there’s a separate portion of Bandelier - 14 miles from the main one. Hmmmm………..Lar being Lar, I just had to investigate. Found it OK, and wasn’t too impressed - till I got about ¼ mile from the highway and things changed fast. Suddenly, colorful rock walls framed beautiful Lake Peak and Santa Fe Ski Area (on the right) that I climbed last year ( http://gogittum.com/blog/?cat=9 ) and massive Santa Fe Baldy (on the left) that I’m determined to climb this year. This is Tsankawi, only about 20 miles from Santa Fe - - - as the crow flies……………….

Now, things got better fast. A native style ladder……………..

Led up onto a plateau……………

On the far side of which loomed mighty Chicoma Peak that I climbed last November ( http://gogittum.com/blog/?cat=39 )
( http://gogittum.com/blog/?cat=40 ) Chicoma dominates the area and was irresistable……………

Another view of the mountains behind Santa Fe, and the return trail from the loop hike………………

It’s a dandy. For now, we’ll go up and over an ancient trail that in places is worn more than a foot deep into the soft volcanic tuff (compressed ash) that most of this area is comprised of. 1½ million years ago, and again 1 million years ago, the giant 25,000 ft volcano nearby exploded like an enormous Mt. St. Helens and blew cubic miles of ash over 100’s of square miles. The remains are 12,000 ft high and 14 mile wide Valles Caldera ( http://gogittum.com/blog/?cat=46 ) that I got the truck stuck in last winter…………….

The tuff is *comparatively* soft, (as compared to granite, etc) and the ancient Indians were able to carve their homes into the cliffs, in many cases expanding on existing caves. The entire area is honeycombed with holes of all sizes. Convenient housing, eh ?? This trail really shows the wear of 1,000’s of feet…………….

On up some more, and some more…………………….

Then over the top and look down the other side. My cousin, Guip, would love this view (he doesn’t like heights) .:-) The highway in the distance is the junction where Hwy 4 to White Rock (foreground) splits from Hwy 502 that goes to LANL (Los Alamos National Laboratory)……………..

And around to the left in a spectacular setting is Los Alamos itself - home of the Manhattan Project and birthplace of the Atomic Bomb………..

Farther around the mesa, the trail climbs some more and gives you a choice of a slot carved in the tuff, or a ladder around to the right……….

These ladders are made of authentic materials which can be iffy on strength, tho’ they’re held together with modern fastenings. Regardless, it’s wise to keep your weight to the side, rather than trusting the center section……………….

On top and on the northeast side of the mesa are ruins of a large, unexcavated town that was abandoned 500 years ago……………

Some thoughtful person(s) dug around and found some old obsidian pieces and pottery sherds that are 100’s of years old. Neat stuff, eh ??……………

There’s always an asshole, tho’. Farther along, another rock like this had been kicked aside and the pieces scattered in the dirt. Jerk ! ! I spent about 15 minutes carefully searching for them and putting ‘em back on the rock. Let’s hope that he doesn’t return.

Now, at the apex of the hike, down another ladder and a view of some really ambitious petroglyphs. This area is covered with 1,000’s of them. Here’s the rock wall…………..

And a close-up. See the snake and the bird…..and others ??…………….

Turn around and start down the trail, and there are some really cool homes, carved from the tuff……………..

A look inside the largest………….

and you can see the squared off corner and even smell the ancient smoke saturating the ceiling. They even carved petroglyphs in the smoky ceiling. These people were compulsive artists and even carved storage nooks in the walls………………..

Remember the return trail from above ?? Here’s the beginning of it, and a deep groove worn in the rock from 1,000’s of feet tromping over it for centuries…………….

More homes - a virtual apartment complex that even has steps cut into the rock………………

Those with acrophobia would do well to stay away from the edge here, eh, Guip ?? …………….

This loop is only 1½ miles, but is a real hidden treasure. No one I’ve spoken with has even heard of it, much less been there, and it’s right on the main highway leading to White Rock and Bandelier. Amazing, beautiful place. Lar.

Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
www.gogittum.com/blog

Posted: April 9th, 2008 under 08 New Mexico, 08-4-6 Tsankawi Park.
Comments: 1