Going to Hyder, AK to see the Grizzlys was fun and interesting, but kind of like seeing them at the zoo.  You’re up on the boardwalk, there’s 100 people around you, the bears ignore you…………etc., etc.  Enjoyable, but…………??

Today, I went up-river about 30 miles to the Fish Pool campground on the Atnarko River, just west of Stuie in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park and about 30 miles east of Bella Coola, B.C.  Checked several other sites, but wasn’t anything happening, and a fisherman here told me he’d seen 3 in 2 hours just prior to my arrival.  They came from upstream and walked and swam downstream, looking for Salmon.  OK, I pulled the Diesel Dodge as much off the road as I could, walked about 100 ft up the road to a fish counter’s hideout and settled in to wait.  2 hours later, I said, “phooey,” and started to walk back to the truck.  Glanced back over my shoulder, and there was a Grizzly coming from downstream, headed up.  I don’t “think” he’s seen me…………….

I was in the wrong place for good pictures, so quickly eased down the road a bit and watched him disappear into the brush………….

I wasn’t sure what to expect, and didn’t know whether he’d come up onto the road, or stay down by the water, so moved a little closer to the truck.  Having him show up on the road, closer to me than I was to the truck would’ve fixed my day, but good…..pepper spray or not.  I have no desire to put that stuff to the test.  A few minutes later he showed up swimming toward me.  I was about 70 or 80 feet from the truck, and he was about 100 feet the other way.  Hmmm ??  The big bear that I saw from the boat last Saturday took off like a shot when he realized I was a human, so I feel a little better about them, but not enuf to get careless……………

When he came up on the bank, I ducked down and scooted all the way back to the truck, and gently opened the door, being as quiet as possible…………

The bank here is about 10 or 12 feet high and as he got closer, I got more and more excited.  Those who’re familiar with them or lived among them are prob’ly laughing at me about now, but I was anything but calm.  “Should I jump in the truck ??”  “What if he sees me ??”  Wind was in my face, so he prob’ly wouldn’t smell me, but ya never know……………….

The Nikon’s mirror flips up to take a shot, then slams back down.  At that point, it seemed impossibly loud.  Surely he’d hear it.  I kept taking pictures………..Clang, Clang, Clang, the mirror said.  Either he didn’t hear it, or didn’t care, ’cause he came by right below me, within 15 feet.  I could’ve made a good leap from the bank and landed right beside him.  Haw ! ! !  You bet I will.  I was hardly breathing.  If he’d even sneezed, I’d've leaped clear thru the truck and out the other side……………..

I don’t know if you’re laughing with me or at me, but man, I was wound up tighter than a $3.00 watch about then.  Grinned like an idiot all the way down the highway and adrenaline was just a-pumping.  Here’s my final view of him.  Thank You, Mr. Bear ! ! !……………

The ferries to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island stop running for the season in a few days, so I’ve had to cut my visit here short, and will break camp here at 5:00 tomorrow morning.  Ouch.  For an over height, over length rig - mine, with boat, is 12 ft high and 43 ft long - it’s $861.00 for the trip.  Ouch, again.   It’s an overnight trip to Port Hardy, and you’re not allowed in your vehicles, so hafta camp in a recliner chair in the lounge.  Far rather sleep in my own bed, but they watch real close at people like me who have RV’s.  I tried that 2 trips ago and got busted.  Gotta finish up my ice cream tonight, too.  You’re required to turn off propane tanks on the ferry, so no refrigerator/freezer.  When I reach Telegraph Cove, it’ll be back into the boat to try and find more Orcas and Humpback Whales for a few days, then on down to visit friends in Sechelt and Gibsons.  Looking forward to those, too.                         Lar.

– 
Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
www.gogittum.com/blog

Posted: April 12th, 2009 under 08 Vacation, 08-9-2 Bella Coola Grizzlies.
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