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09-8-11 Quatsino Sound, B.C.


Today satisfied a many years long ambition, but it sure didn’t come easy.  Then again, it could have been a lot worse, too.  Here’s my day………….. 

I launched at the high tech ramp at Coal Harbor, B.C., (an old time Whaling station) about 20 or 30 km southwest of Port Hardy, B.C.  Fairly late getting started due to waffling about the nasty weather.  My long, lucky run of nice weather finally ended with a vengeance today.  It was a chilly 54º F at 10:00 AM, drizzling rain and didn’t look like much fun for a ride in an open boat, but one of the guys at the RV park said that at least the wind wasn’t blowing.  Yah, he’s got a point, so I went for it.  Right next to the boat launch is a float plane charter service, so I stopped in there to ask about weather forecasts.  I don’t have much faith in marine forecasts, but do in aviation forecasts.  The very pleasant young fellas there told me I’d best go today - a front with strong northwesterlies is coming in tomorrow.  OK………away we go.  Here’s the Garmin GPS track for the day.  From Coal Harbor to the Gillam Islands is about 30 miles.  (remember Malcolm Island and the Broughton Archipelago from the Orca trip on 8/9/09 ??)…………….

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Remember I said, “high tech” boat launch ??”  Yah, right, and at low tide, too.  This is the top end of an extensive, long system of fjords again and the tides rush in and out twice a day.  I took my day as I got it, and sure enuf, I ran against a flooding tide when I was going out and against an ebbing tide coming back.  The luck o’ Lar.  Here’s Dustbuster ready and waiting.  It was dead calm, but the faint drizzle of rain never stopped……………..

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South at the start, across Holberg Inlet and the start of Rupert Inlet to Quatsino Narrows.  I wasn’t fooling about the tide…………..

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Best coast rain forest vegetation grows right down to the high tide line and no fooling around.  This is a thick, tangled jungle.  Goes like this for miles…..looks like it’s been pruned…………..

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Approaching Drake Island, the rain really cut loose and only pure stub-Bourne-ness kept me going.  That and very good foul weather gear.  It did pour down…………..

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Even that can only take you so far, tho’ and I was getting disgusted with it and starting to think about turning back - more concerned about keeping the camera dry - when it started to open up ahead and I could see the Hustad Islands.  This is where a couple of the very nice folks at Pioneer Hotel and Campground had told me to start looking.  My whole focus for the day was to see and hopefully photograph a Sea Otter.  I’ve wanted to do this for years………………

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As much as I know about it, (??) I reasoned that, since Sea Otters forage on the bottom, they’d probably prefer reasonably shallow water.  Most of the shorelines along here drop straight down for over 100 feet, so I headed in between the islands.  No dummy Lar……..right away something caught my eye.  I saw paws banging up and down and realized it was a Sea Otter breaking something open against a rock on its’ chest - just like you see on TV.  Didn’t see what he was breaking, but could clearly see his rock “table”………………

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I’d no sooner chopped the throttle, grabbed the camera for this quick shot and he rolled over and vanished.  I saw over a dozen of them today and all but one were very spooky.  Local people had told me you can drive right up to them, but not today.  Get within 200 feet, even just easing in at an angle at idle and they’d dive.  Puttered around here for a while, then headed west.  I wanted to hit the open Pacific Ocean while I was at it and it was still a long way.  A few miles farther on, past Koprino Harbor I came to the Monday Rocks and went in between them, too, with no joy………………

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Then, on the far side of Monday Rocks, I saw a now familiar silhouette and slowed down, then shut off the motor and let the boat drift.  I believe this to be a female, since her nose was badly torn up and it’s my understanding that it’s typical for the males to grab the female by the nose when mating.  Sounds a little rough to me, but here she is.  The green in the water is reflections from the trees above……………..

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She’s gorgeous, but not real cuddly - she’s at least 4 ft long and prob’ly closer to 5 ft.  They have some serious fur - water temp is a chilly 47.5 degrees……………

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By now I was less than 100 feet away and she was watching me pretty closely……………

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I kept my outline down low - kneeling on the floor - and just let the boat drift.  “No,” she said, “you’re too close,” and put some distance between us……………

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Finally, it was too much and she rolled over, dived and vanished.  Thank You, Ma’am………..you just made my day, big time……………..

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Heading on west now, and Cape Perkins is visible in the far distance, with Kains Island off the tip.  The entrance to Winter Harbor is just this side of it.  The other side is the open Pacific Ocean - next stop, Japan or The Aleutians.  You can see the effect of the big ocean rollers coming in up the channel here.  Not large today, I’d guess height at maybe 4 ft with a very long period between them.  Lots of power in that water…………….

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To the left, off in the distance are the tiny Gillam Island group.  I headed for them……………….

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……..and saw another silhouette - a male this time (I think - no torn nose)……………

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Another.  I saw many Sea Otters down here, but all were very spooky and there were no more close approaches.  Due to the heavy overcast I was shooting at ISO 640 with a long (450mm equiv) telephoto and had to crop these way in……………..

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Whooops - this faked me out.  I was seeing Sea Otters everywhere by now.  :-) …………….

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Looking south, the near point isn’t named on the chart, but the far one is Kwakiutl (does anyone know how to pronounce that ??) Point and the huge bay between them is Restless Bight………..

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 That whole area is another maze of islands and reefs, but they’re not for today, and I really think not for the Dustbuster.  Yes, I have a kicker motor and a VHF radio and so on, but we’re a long, long way from no-where here and there’re no options.  Even Winter Harbor is a long haul north from here at 5 mph with a kicker motor.  So, it’s getting late anyway and time to head back.  Looking east in Quatsino Sound now.  See the little notch just to the right of center here ??  That notch is about ½ way home.

I had just started back when the light and beeper on the console warned me the injection tank was out of 2 stroke oil.  OK, stopped and started pouring oil into the reservoir and heard a giant “Whooooosh” behind me.  Turned real fast, saw the end of a blow and then a Humpback Whale’s distinctive flukes heading down.  Camera was too far away to reach.  Aaaaarrrrggghh….Humpbacks were a hope for today, too……………..

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Timing was good.  Lucky.  The weather is closing down behind me at about 2/3 of the way back.  No idea of why the water way out here is so murky.  Gotta be a large, muddy river somewhere near by, but I don’t see it on the chart…………..

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Coal Harbor in the distance.  Launch ramp is about ¼ of the way in from the right…………….

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I got the boat loaded on the trailer in a light drizzle and on the way back to the campground it started coming down again.  Hear it on the roof of the camper from time to time as I write this.  Good night to not be on the water.  :-)                          Lar.

 P.S.     Next day - in spite of wonderful aviation weather forecasts was scattered clouds and sunny with no wind.  Would’ve been a perfect day for chasing Sea Otters.  Oh well……….how do ya know, eh ??


Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
www.gogittum.com/blog

09-8-9 Johnstone Strait, B.C.


In past years I’ve camped and launched at Telegraph Cove, about 12 miles SE of Port McNeill, B.C.  This year I decided against it.  Telegraph Cove is a tourist trap - crammed with people and very expensive.  Not my kind of place, so I stayed at a nice little RV park on the hill right in Port McNeill and launched into the harbor there.  I had looked on the chart and northeast of town, on the other side of Malcolm Island there looked to be a huge number of small islands that I hadn’t visited in the past - the Broughton Archipelago.  I’d also heard of an area on the back side of Malcolm Is. where Orcas came to rub their backs in the shallows, as they do in Robson Bight, far to the east in Johnstone Strait.  So……….let’s go take a look.  Here’s my GPS track for the day……………

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The weather was pretty shaky;  overcast and trying to rain, but at least there was no wind.  Rain, I can live with, up to a point anyway.  All the way around Malcolm Island there were many Salmon fishermen, and, as I understand, many Salmon catchers, too, which isn’t always the case.  At the east end of the island there were huge schools of bait fish and hordes of birds feeding on them.  Many of these I didn’t recognize.  These little guys in particular look a little odd……………

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They were pretty shy, but I finally did get a close up look at one and later identified it as a Rhinoceros Auklet.  OK.  Never heard of ‘um, but here he is, about the size of a small, fat Duck……………

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There were many Cormorants of several species, Guillemots, and several others I didn’t recognize.  Unbelievable numbers of Seagulls and Terns, and many Loons, too.  I thought Loons were fresh water birds, and their call on northern lakes is famous, but here they are, too, in the ocean.  These, I believe, are Common Loons……………..

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Now I swung away and headed for the Broughtons, and what a destination they are.  Here’s a small fore-taste of what’s to come…………..

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Closer in…………..

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Here’s a portion of the Spot Locater’s Google Earth map of the area.  I added the island names myself.  Keep in mind that I went thru just a small piece off the end of Bonwick Island and felt completely lost.  It was overcast and no sun for orientation.  There are many, many tiny islands and shoals that don’t show in that map.  It’s fun, but confusing and dis-orienting…………..

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Here we’re coming thru a passage between several islands……………..

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Come around a turn and, surprise……………

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Another small boat coming in, toward the 3 rafted up…………..

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Streamers of Bull Kelp tell of submerged reefs.  Lots of them and, of course, the ever present tidal currents………………..

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>From ½ mile away I could smell the Seal poop on this little islet…………….

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The stench was incredible, but the Seals don’t seem to mind - they just wallow in it.  Their camouflage is great……………….

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Just south of here I got a very quick glimpse of a small Humpback Whale, but it dove and I couldn’t find it again.

Back toward Johnstone Strait now, looking for Orca, or Killer Whales, there were more huge bait balls, and hordes of Seagulls attacking them.  Pandemonium.  You should hear the screeching.  This is a tiny piece of it………they went solid for ¼ of a mile.  The noise was un-believable……………..

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This beautiful Ketch was heading west towing its’ dinghy, fishermen were after Salmon and a herd of kayak-ers was heading up Baronet Passage.  The tide rips, of course, were swirling and many more islands are in the distance.  Huge Knight Inlet is just a few miles away up this passage.  This scenery absolutely fascinates me and one day I’m going to return with a boat I can at least camp in for a few days……………..

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I’d thought of going to Robson Bight, where the Orcas are known to rub on the rocks in the shallows, but it was a long way and I was getting tired, so I turned around and headed back west in Johnstone Strait.   Now I was going west and passed a tour boat going east.  Suddenly, directly between us I caught a quick glimpse - I thought - of the distinctive huge dorsal fin of a Bull Orca.  Can it be ??………………

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The tour boat driver missed it completely and kept going, but I chopped the throttle and turned back, shut off the motor and waited.  Soon…………YUP……………..

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Then he disappeared again.  Long, long, achingly long minutes later there came a huge, metallic sounding “whooosh” right behind me.  I nearly jumped out of the boat and quickly turned.  Migawd, he’s almost in my lap…….less than 100 feet away……………

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Seeing this on TV doesn’t prepare you.  The thing is huge, like a submarine going by.  This Orca is over 20 feet long.  I’m taking it on faith that they’re friendly……………..

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He stayed with me, just loafing around for about 10 minutes and I stood there braced against the console with a huge grin on my face.  Finally, he tired of the game and went on his way.  I’ve been after this moment for weeks now and covered a lot of miles looking for it.  Thank you, Mr. Orca…………………

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That really put the icing on the cake and I certainly wasn’t tired any more.  Back to Port McNeill for the night and now, a day later, I’m in Coal Harbor, B.C., near Port Hardy, ready to head down Quatsino Sound in the morning - weather permitting.  I’m told - by several local people - that there are many Sea Otters out toward the Pacific Ocean end of Quatsino Sound, about 30 miles away, so, I’m gonna go look.  They say the Otters aren’t shy, so maybe, just maybe, I’ll get some pics.  Rained hard this afternoon, so maybe it’ll be nice tomorrow.                        Lar.

Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
www.gogittum.com/blog

09-8-5 Quadra Island


I wanted to see the narrow channels between the islands off Campbell River and it took a while for conditions to be right.  After waiting for weather for a couple of days, I finally got a window on Wednesday, Aug 5 and launched at the little ramp just south of the very nice, very friendly Driftwood-by-the-Sea campground in south Campbell River, B.C.  The southern peninsula of Quadra Island is in the distance and the Cape Mudge lighthouse shows above the exit thru the breakwater.  Cape Mudge has a very bad reputation - a long stretch of shallows to the south - right in this picture and the powerful tidal currents can make it very bad, and much worse when the wind blows against them……………

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I made a try on Monday and went out to the bird sanctuary at Mitlenach Island, but wind was coming up and it was getting foggy so I turned back.  Launch is at waypoint 736, Mitlenach at 737.  The “fog” turned out to be smoke from a major forest fire at Gold River……..which was to be my next destination.  Oh well……………..

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Today, tho’, all was well.  A little hazy all over from the smoke in the air and a “possibility” of rain, but I’ll take my chances.  Rain, I can handle.  Out around the south end of Quadra and north into Hoskyn Channel…………….

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Just a few miles up and on the left I saw this house hiding on the hill in the little cove just south of Conville Bay.  Some of these places - many of them - are mansions.  I’ve said in other stories how these places fascinate me, so will show this one and just a couple of others……………..

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Farther up Hoskyn Channel, Maurelle Island shows in the distance…………….

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I’d heard some real horror stories about Surge Narrows, but currents should be moderate now.  We’re just at the end of a moderate ebb tide (9 ft change) and currents are slowing down…………….

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Just short of Surge Narrows, I saw this un-usual building.  Wonder what it was/is ??……………

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Approaching Surge Narrows, in the center, I saw “something” off to the left.  A mast ??………..

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Gotta go take a look and glad I did.  What a neat little place………..

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Entering the Narrows.  This is the end of a moderate tide, and it’s plenty.  It’s a strange feeling, as I’ve said before.  Suddenly you’ll get this “greasy” feeling, as if the boat is sliding around sideways.  Very distinctive……and kinda fun………….

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The actual passage is very small and this thing was laying there picking its’ teeth and waiting………………

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Maurelle Island on the right and Sonora Island in the far distance…………….

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I was surprised at the number of homes hidden along Maurelle’s coast.  See this one hiding in the trees ??………….

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This channel isn’t named on my chart, but toward the end of it is the entrance to “Hole in the Wall,” another passage with a savage reputation.  Local boaters had told me to be very careful of the far end of this one, but today I didn’t go in.  Wish I had, now.  Just a moderate tide - actually, current is almost slack now………….

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More houses………..actually this was a small community with more houses in a small cove to the left.  There were several like this thru this area.  I think I’d get cabin fever fairly quickly…………..

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A quick look back.  These are just foothills; the main Coast Range is hidden in the haze in the distance……………….

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This is the very common type of tour boat popular thru this whole area.  For $90.00 they’ll take you on a 4 hour tour of islands, channels, Whale and Bear watching, etc…………….

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There are many aquaculture operations throughout these channels and I have no idea what they’re raising.  I think most are Salmon operations, but not sure.  This is a very big one, in Okisollo Channel not far from the Strait of Georgia…………..

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In the cove to the east, a tour boat was pulled up close to shore and people were snapping pictures.  Probably a Bear, possibly River Otters but I held back, not wanting to ruin his opportunity……………..

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After they’d left, I eased in there and looked it over carefully, but whatever it was was long gone.

Now I came out past Granite Point and headed south in Discovery Passage toward Seymour Narrows.  Many log booms are towed south to the mills by tugboats here and from time to time they’ll lose a log.  Illegal to touch them now, but as kids 50 years ago they were manna and fair pickin’s for salvage.  This one rides very high in the water…….Spruce ??  Doug Fir and Hemlock float much deeper and the bark is wrong for Cedar.  These have sunk many a boat, especially when they become waterlogged and are barely at the surface………………

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In this view of the GPS you can see the track from my trip up thru Seymour Narrows 2 weeks ago.  Getting back into familiar country……………..

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Brown Bay, and the very nice RV park there.  I stayed one night in about the center - but it’s $40.00 a night………………..

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The Spring (Chinook) Salmon are running well now and fishermen are out all over the country after them.  I saw some very nice catches………………

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Altogether I covered about 65 miles in 3½ hours today and burned 39 liters of fuel.  Lots of stopping and starting.  Not bad for a very pleasant day.                Lar.

Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
www.gogittum.com/blog

09-7-15 Desolation Sound


After leaving Egmont, I came north thru Powell River to the bustling metropolis of Lund, B.C.  Hwy 101 ends at the wharf in Lund……..way out in the middle of no-where.  This is a real memory shot for me……….I spent my summer vacations here as a teenager……….. http://webpictures.homestead.com/southbc.html   It was a pretty rough little Scandihoovian fishing village then and the smaller community of Finn Bay in the next cove was notorious for drinking and fighting and us kids were forbidden to go there.

Lund is no larger now, (there’s no more room in the little cove) and quite crowded - maybe 200 or 300 people, but Lund and Finn Bay have gone fairly upscale and it’s a lot different.  Usually I’m not wild about that stuff, but I do like the “new” Lund.  Neat place.  Now, if only the stone faced young ladies in the very nice little bakery could learn how to smile and be pleasant all would be well in my little world.  It’d be nice if their wifi worked, too.  Folks in the Boardwalk Restaurant across the little cove were extremely pleasant - and THeir wifi works.  The restaurant was spotless, food was excellent, view great, prices fair and service extremely good.  Nice.

This isn’t too far northwest of Jervis Inlet and scenery is very similar.  I never tire of seeing what’s around the next corner.  Today, about 75 miles of corners and actually far beyond Desolation Sound to Toba Inlet……………

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On the morning of the 15th, I dumped the Dustbuster in the water - $2.00 to launch and $2.00 to retrieve it - and headed northwest.  Big, nostalgic grin on my face as I headed into the Copeland Islands - what we as kids called the Raggeds.  Very pretty country, lots of little islands and perfect for kayak-ers………………

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Looking back as we exit the Raggeds, it looks like we’re really hauling but Dustbuster still cruises at a sedate 22 mph……..

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Mink Island on the right and West Redonda angles up to the left, just left of straight ahead.  East Redonda is the big mountain just right of straight ahead.  Today I went completely around East Redonda……………

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That’s Marylebone Point straight ahead and right around the corner is a narrow inlet - Roscoe Bay - that’s a very popular, well protected anchorage.  Here it’s almost all sailboats…….in Jervis Inlet (to Chatterbox) it was mostly powerboats.  Go figure………………

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Here’s the entrance to Roscoe Bay, around Marylebone Point.  It goes way back in there and many boats were anchored.  Nice life……………..

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Sounds a little odd, but it’s not always easy to correlate GPS pictures to printed charts.  Usually have the GPS on a far closer scale and it fouled me up this time.  I wound up going a couple of miles up Pendrell Sound before realizing that it was a long bay with no outlet.  Hadta backtrack and get back into Waddington Channel and soon saw “something” in the distance.  Looked for all the world like a large, crowded parking lot………but this is water.  What the hey ??…………….

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Closer up, I could see that it’s an enormous number of floats of different shapes and sizes.  What ??  Seems like I’ve read about Oyster farmers on the “least” coast (this being the “best” coast) farming their “Arsters” on ropes dangling from floats.  Yup, found out later that’s just what this is - an Oyster farm.  Looks like a tangle from this angle, but they were anchored in neat rows.  This is just south of waypoint 733…………….

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Looking way ahead now, Walsh Cove is in the far distance, just left of that little notch, which is the entrance (exit) to Toba Inlet.  This is where I was s’posed to meet friends Garry and Nellie on their 40 ft sloop, the Sunshine.  Remember last year at Pirate’s Cove ??……… http://gogittum.com/blog/?cat=73  I was real interested in meeting them to see what they had planned for this year but they’d planned on being there (or in Lund ??) by the 12th.  I was running 3 days late and they were gone.  I’d checked in all anchorages on the way and continued to check throughout the trip, but with no joy and also called frequently on the VHF radio.  Must’ve gave up on me and headed up Toba Inlet, I guess.  They’re still in the wind and haven’t heard from them yet, as of July 27, as I write this.  Sorry guys………….

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Walsh Cove is a pretty spot and a Gov’t Marine Park and several boats were anchored here, but looks to me like it’d be pretty exposed to a southwest wind blowing up the Channel……………..

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Ah, well, leaving Walsh Cove, I went out thru the narrow exit and out into giant Toba Inlet.  Channel Island is straight in front of us here, and Toba continues for many miles around to the left past it.  When I was a kid, this was a name signifying great distances and remoteness……….and now I’m here.  Dustbuster has carried me to some wonderful places………and I have plans for many more.  The mountains here are building up into the mighty Coast Range.  These fjords are actually the foothills.  Beautiful……………

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Toba is a little far for today, even tho’ I carry gas enuf to go quite a way up it.  My range, with 32 gallons on board, (not counting an extra 2½ gallon jug) is almost 200 miles.  I would never try to go 100 miles out………the general rule of thumb is 1/3 out, 1/3 back and 1/3 in reserve.  For example, if it gets rough, (and marine weather forecasts are notoriously un-reliable) the motor works much harder, the boat goes much slower and fuel consumption goes way up.  You need a healthy reserve.  This gives me a practical range of 60 or so miles out and typical for me is 20 to 40 miles each way.  80 miles is a good run for a day in an open boat, and last year at Chilko Lake I covered over 100 miles on a 45º day.  Much as I love the boat and the water, I was very glad to be finished that day.  Instead, I swung down into beautiful Homfray Channel.  This shot is looking SE….almost east….from about waypoint 734 in the map at the top of this page.  Giant glacier capped mountains everywhere……………

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A new resort is going in…………there are many thru this country, cropping up like mushrooms.  Some guests come by boat, but my understanding is that most come by floatplane.  Salmon fishing has been the big thing, but eco-tourism - kayaking, hiking, Bear and Whale watching are fast taking over as the most popular activities…………….

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There are many older places, too, and many are abandoned.  It’s very common to see a row of rotted pilings from an old landing sticking up to show someone lived and/or worked there 50 or 75 years ago.  Not sure about this one……….looks dilapidated, but from closer up the boat looks OK.  Dunno, but it’s a beautiful setting……………

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Generally, the clumps of islands are named as a group, in addition to their individual names, such as the Copeland Islands outside of Lund.  At the far southwest corner of Homfray Channel is a large group of small islands that look almost fake in their beauty, but they don’t seem to have a group name.  Look at my track just north of Tenedos Bay on the map.  Wonderful place, full of channels, reefs, islands, etc.  Many boats were anchored and dinghys and kayaks paddling all over.  Looks very, very nice.  Next year I’d like to rent a 30 to 40 ft boat for 2 weeks or more and spend some time just gunk-holing around in this country.  I love it…………..

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Even here.  If you go to the right of the island on the right there’s a channel leading to a cove with several boats anchored.  Look very carefully at the rock just left of center.  See the boat thru the trees ??  Beautiful.  (I use that word a lot up here, don’t I ?? :-)………………

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OK, wind’s starting to kick up and it’s a long way home, so light the fire and git ‘er gittin’……………..

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There are homes scattered on rocks and cliffs all over this country, on fresh water and salt, but come around Sarah Point and go past Bliss Landing and you’ll really see a collection of them.  Here’s a dandy.  Construction costs here must really be something…………

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This one’s a mansion………..

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Even some little cabins that strongly attract me…………..

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Then……..lo and behold………whadda we have here ??  An almost identical trailer to the one I live in in Santa Fe……….whenever I’m there………………Hmmm - food for thought……………

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A few miles farther thru the tangle of islands and there’s the familiar harbor of Lund waiting for us - and hot fish and chips in the excellent restaurant.  What a day.  Sure sorry I missed Garry and Nellie…………….

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More adventures tomorrow.                        Lar.

Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
www.gogittum.com/blog

09-7-21 Seymour Narrows


Today were fun.  The location sent on the Spot Locater doesn’t look like much, but Seymour Narrows, about 10 miles north of Campbell River, B.C. on Vancouver Island is one of the most powerful tidal passes in the world.  It’s not as violent as Skookumchuck 1½ weeks ago, but still is very powerful and is very deep - several 100 feet - and I was able to run around and play without worrying about tearing the bottom out of the boat.  Here’s the Spot location again…………
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.1363,-125.3507&ll=50.1363,-125.3507&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1  and here’s what I found.  I had a very bad time with the camera today and will prob’ly hafta give up using it and go back to the old 8800 for the rest of the trip.  It won’t lock onto a focus or exposure and over 75% of my shots today were useless.  Here’s a few that weren’t.  First, here’s the GPS display of the trip…………….

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Approaching Seymour Narrows, I was astonished at the amount of water moving.  Skookumchuck and Malibu Inlet are quite narrow and shallow and it’s not too hard to picture the river-like currents roaring thru as the inlets beyond fill and empty.  But here………..migawd, this is big water in comparison.  Race point is on the left here and you can just see the cantilevered building at the tip.  The left edge of Maud Island is almost exactly in the center, just above the middle here, so this’s about 1½ miles wide and right close to 400 ft deep.  Lots of water flowing here.  Starting to look interesting and I could feel the boat moving under me a bit - kind of a sliding, skidding feeling, something like driving on ice……………….

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Just a couple of miles farther on, coming around the southwest edge of Maud Island and going into the Narrows.  The remains of Ripple Rock are off to the left, but I saw no particular sign of them.  I do remember the hullaballoo when the rocks were blown out of there in, I think, 1958………………

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As I gained confidence, I got a little more daring.  Wouldn’t dare do this at Skookumchuck - that’s shallow and full of rocks.  Seymour Narrows is deep and there’s a feeling of huge power sliding and rolling and pulling below.  It’s a strange feeling in the boat - kind of like huge, powerful paws fumbling at the bottom of the boat, slewing it around, sliding it sideways, jerking it out from under me……..hadta hold on very tight, and brace my feet very solidly.  You can bet I had the motor kill cord hooked to my belt and my inflatable lifejacket on.  I wouldn’t want to be in that water very long - water temp was just 49º F……………..

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Just about at the point of the Spot Location a huge whirlpool opened beside me.  It happened quickly and stood my hair on end……….and I was grinning hard by then.  The boat handled it fine.  I was careful to avoid the actual whirlpool because I didn’t know if it was all foam, nor how deep that foam was.  I don’t think we’d float well on foam.  Don’t think I’d breathe it well, either.  This was a fairly strong flow today……..measured it at a little over 10 mph with the GPS - it showed me going 12 mph up current and 33 mph down current.  This was on a tidal change of 12.5 feet.  I’m told current can get to over 15 mph with a larger tide, and whirlpools can suck big logs underwater.  What an absolute gas……but I was watching very carefully, too, and a couple of local boaters had given me specific instructions on how to go about this.  Look at this - and you should hear it, too……………….

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This pass is about 1/4 mile wide and 6 or 8 miles long.  I may go back tomorrow - similar tides - and use the 8800.  Some very good shots were bad out of the D200 today and it’s very frustrating.  Dustbuster handles this well and easily and is great fun, tho’ care & caution are certainly needed.  On the way back out, I went to check out that cantilevered building stuck out over Race Point.  What on earth ??…………….

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The camera was dying for real now and that was the 2nd from last shot I got from it.  Lasted just long enuf.  Here’s the last shot………look at the size of that house.  I guess the little one must be for rapids-watching parties, eh ??……………

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The D200 went in to Nikon Canada next day and today I got the happy news - “not economically repairable.”  Sighhhh…………….                     Lar.


Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
www.gogittum.com/blog

09-7-12 Skookumchuck Rapids


I had planned to go to Chatterbox Falls today and also to run thru (if I could) Skookumchuck tidal rapids.  The rapids are notorious and very dangerous and I wasn’t sure the little Dustbuster would be able to handle the power of the ocean.  The afternoon before the big effort, I was talking to a group of RV’ers in the campground near Egmont, B.C. and was invited to join them on the 4 km (about 2½ miles) hike to the rapids overlook and view point.

The trail actually starts a short distance out of Egmont, so we all crowded into a small car that had been towed (it’s even called a “toad”) behind one of the RVs.  Right away, we were startled by a building off to the side of the trail in the woods……………

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It turned out to be a custom upscale bakery hidden away here and owned by a very pleasant young couple who are very much into the local sports - hiking, climbing, kayaking, fishing, etc.  I made a point of stopping on the way out 2 days later for a really great, big muffin to munch on as I headed north.  The trail goes thru heavy temperate zone rain forest and off-trail or cross country hiking would be extremely difficult…………..

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Past Brown Lake……………..

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…..and out onto the rocky bluff overlooking the infamous Skookumchuck Narrows Rapids, created each time the tide fills and empties Sechelt (SeeSHELt) Inlet…………..

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This is on a moderate flooding tide of about 12 foot change and current is above 10 mph.  Rocks everywhere……….this looks ugly.  Beautiful, yes, but ugly for a small boat.  We went on for about 1 km more out onto the point with the other spectators and watched a kayak-er paddle out…………

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……….and dive right into the maelstrom.  This was something to see.  Each would take about 5 minutes to play, then ride on out and make room for the next.  Good sportsmanship.  They’d go back and forth, roll upside down and come up facing backwards………lots of fun.  It was getting very late and I had the camera set for ISO 1000 and EVF -0.7 to get these shots.  My D200 Nikon was beginning to give problems here and died a week later.  It’s now at Nikon Repair………………

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Here’s the end of the run.  Look how rough this is………….

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I love adventure and I’m addicted to adrenaline, but I’m not crazy either, despite popular opinion.  I looked at this and thought, “no way.”  I’ve had some - tho’ not enuf to make me a pro - experience with river running when I launched at Lee’s Ferry, AZ in ‘02 and took my little aluminum boat 10 miles up thru Marble Canyon - the beginning of the Grand Canyon on the Colorado River to Glen Canyon Dam, that holds back Lake Powell………..
http://webpictures.homestead.com/startofthegrandcanyon.html

You can see my story of running on Lake Powell 2½ months ago at……….. http://gogittum.com/blog/?cat=72

Then, in 2006, I launched the Dustbuster at Cottonwood Cove on Lake Mojave, much lower on the Colorado River and ran the 40 miles upstream to Hoover Dam, that holds back Lake Mead, near Las Vegas, NV…………… http://webpictures.homestead.com/cc106.html  I learned very quickly that it’s easy to go upstream………just feather the throttle, match the water speed and you can traverse back and forth to look for ways around rocks, deeper channels, etc.  Coming back downstream that’s not possible - you’re there for the ride and basically just tough it out.

I wasn’t too crazy about that option here because of the extreme wildness of the water and the speed of the current.  Only thing I could see that I could - literally - live with would be to hit the rapids on an ebbing tide which would give a different wave pattern, but would allow me an escape if I didn’t like what I was seeing.

As it worked out, the tide was ebbing in mid-afternoon the next day, July 12, so I planned to make my run to Chatterbox Falls, then run to Skookumchuck and take a look.  It worked out very well and I’m very glad I didn’t try the flooding tide.  I passed Egmont and just a few minutes later got the 1st mild taste of things to come.  This was like a huge ocean river.  Look at those huge swirls and the small whirlpool at left center.  I was starting to grin and feeling the power of the currents pulling at the boat.  As it turned out, my timing was perfect and it was just starting to really run……………

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Soon, I was looking at the viewpoint I’d looked down from the evening before.  Camera was giving me fits………….

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It was getting stronger fast, and I’d already seen several submerged rocks and had the locations memorized.  (with my memory ??  you bet)  In just a few minutes, the current had picked up dramatically and a real boil was developing to the right……………..

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This was getting pretty wild pretty fast and I was getting un-easy just as fast.  It was still about ¼ mile to where the kayak-ers were playing the night before, but I said, “uh-uh.”……………

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A quick look to the left - the power of these currents pulling at the boat was awesome……………..

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This was getting ugly fast and I started easing out of it.  If a standing wave or somesuch developed downstream of me it could be very bad.  The tourist boats were running back and forth, but they are RIB’s - Rigid Inflatable Boats - of about 24 ft with huge pontoons for extra flotation and twin 200 hp motors…………and the skippers know these waters.  Dustbuster is 16 ft, has just 50 hp and the Lar doesn’t know these very dangerous waters at all, so I got out of there.  A week later, on the 20th, a tugboat was sunk here.  Take a look at the YouTube video and see if you think I made a good decision…………… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEfUblSDzww  This was certainly exciting, tho’, and made a great end to a great day.                          Lar.

–   
Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
www.gogittum.com/blog

09-7-12 Chatterbox Falls


I’ve been dragging my feet on this one, and I think it may be because I went way overboard on pictures.  Generally, I’ll take 150 - 200 shots on a really good day.  Today I shot 537 pictures - a personal record for 1 day, slightly edging out 700 in 1½ days at Bosque del Apache, New Mexico 1½ years ago.  Dredging thru this mountain of stuff, trying to decide what and which to use was daunting.  Finally, today - 7/26 - I just cut thru the b.s. and started editing.  Let’s see how it works out.

The new Canadian Topo program for the Garmin GPSmap60CSx works out well, but I’m finding the software awkward to use.  Here’s the trail of my day’s adventure.  In the lower left, the little line under the “5 mi” represents 5 miles on the map.  Altogether about 40 miles each way, from Egmont - a very scenic little town - to Chatterbox Falls, back past Egmont to Skookumchuck Narrows Rapids and then back to Egmont……………….

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In 1973, my ex-wife-to-be and I flew to Vancouver, B.C. to meet my Uncle Dick and he drove us to Garden Bay on the Sechelt (See-SHELt) Peninsula - the Sunshine Coast - then up Agamemnon Channel and to Vancouver Bay in his 21ft boat.  It’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen, the Oysters and Clams were thick on the beach and large, feisty Dungeness Crabs were just offshore.  We ate high on the hog and had a wonderful time.  Now, 36 years later, I finally returned.  Great memories, and much water under the bridge.

So……..start from the scenic little town of Egmont and start north thru the Prince of Wales Reach of Jervis Inlet.  The B.C. coast is laced with these fjords and scenery is spectacular.  Here’s the Garmin.  Skookumchuck Rapids is just above Doriston, Vancouver Bay about center on right side…………….

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Looking at maps is neat and I love ‘em but nothing equals the real thing.  Here’s Prince of Wales Reach, looking pretty much north.  (I’m very sure the Garmin labeling is in error.  According to Canadian Gov’t mapping, Princess Louisa Inlet is the one with Chatterbox Falls at the end)………………

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As I started up the channel, I looked back and saw a large cruise ship coming from the direction of the Strait of Georgia to the west.  No way I wanted this crowd to get ahead of me, so put the throttle forward and went for it……………….

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Miles later, I made the right turn and headed northeast into Princess Royal Reach.  Well on the way now, and it’s gorgeous.  As you go north and east, the mountains slowly get larger and steeper and more ice fields (glaciers) show…………….

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There are many aquaculture operations in these fjords all the way up the coast and they’re the subject of much controversy and squabbling.  Commercial operations are all in favor of anything that’ll make ‘em a buck and the tree huggers and fish kissers want everything the way it was 200 years ago.  Neither is realistic and both sides lie thru their teeth trying to force their opinions on everyone else.  So far, reason and a moderate balance seem to prevail  - to my eyes, at least.  This one is a Salmon raising facility……………

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The end of Princess Royal Reach, with Deserted Bay just out of sight on the right……………

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Around the corner and starting up Queen’s Reach.  It just keeps getting better.  This is a typical rocky shoreline and the waters are very deep here, and very cold - about 49º F.  Brrrr……………….

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Now the end of the journey is in sight, but the fun has just begun.  See the Malibu Inlet ??……………..

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The far north end of Jervis Inlet.  I never thought I’d ever get to this country and now the great little Dustbuster has brought me here.  Wonderful……………..

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Swing to the right now, tho’, and there’s the narrow little entrance to the Malibu.  I was repeatedly warned about the vicious rapids here on a strong tide and was a little (??) apprehensive.  I’d carefully timed this to go thru on a slack tide.  The large, modern resort was a surprise, and it was crowded.  You must go around the island in the center and both sides are full of rocks.  Great caution is needed, even on slack tide…………….

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I’d love to see this on a full running tide………..from the restaurant.  This is about as slack a current as you’ll ever see here.  Lookit the crowd of people, way up here…………..

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OK, deep into Princess Louisa Inlet and the gov’t park here.  This is a textbook fjord - steep, narrow, deep and beautiful.  Just - around - the - next - corner……………..

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……..is Chatterbox Falls.  There’s actually creeks and waterfalls everywhere and it’s very high and very steep.  What an eyeful to come around to, eh ??……………..

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Chatterbox Falls itself is actually just the lower section at lower right of the above picture.  Many people were playing here and it’s a very popular stop for yachtsmen.  I saw no other boats like mine.  Actually, I never see other boats like mine in country like this.  It’s very remote.  This is why I have a kicker motor, in case of main engine failure and I watch the weather very closely……………..

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After a long, lingering look and a cruise around the area, I started away and took a look back.  Wonderful…………..

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Time now to hit it…………..

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The tides wait for no man and the entrance at Malibu Inlet is starting to pick up…………….

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Adventures weren’t quite over.  Remember the “cruise ship ??”  Here it came, already, but it’s not a typical cruise ship……………..

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Unless I’m very mistaken, I believe this is the floating condo palace for the very rich.  It cruises leisurely around the world and residents come and go as they please, with some apparently living on board full time in opulent luxury.  What a life, eh ??  It looks well equipped with lots of toys, too……………….

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On the way back, the wind kicked up in the Princess Royal Reach and made for some bumpy and wet running.  This is fine, tho’ - Dustbuster is only 16 ft, but is very beamy and deep with a high bow, good entry, well flared sides and is very heavy - punches right thru a lot worse than this with no fuss……………

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I can’t resist.  I took many pictures of Vancouver Bay and have to include one here.  What wonderful memories.  There’s a couple of homes here now, but it’s still gorgeous and there’re still Oysters on the beach………………

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Returning to home port, I by-passed Egmont and went into the infamous Skookumchuck Rapids, but that’s another story.                   Lar.


Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
www.gogittum.com/blog

09-7-4 Lake Aberts, OR


It may be a while before we see any more scenery such as in the past week, but there’s still much of interest to see in different areas.  Yesterday morning, I came up from California thru southern Oregon and found 2 huge lakes that are small parts of an older, much larger system.  Goose Lake, on the CA/OR border is many miles long but it’s quite distant from the highway, access is difficult and I knew of no reason to try.  Then, farther north, Lake Aberts (remember me chasing the Aberts Squirrels in New Mexico ??) is right beside the highway and a look down told me that this is a different kind of lake.  This one, too, is probably 20 or so miles long and is highly alkaline, as is Goose Lake……………..

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It looks very much like Mono Lake in east-central California, near the Nevada border.  ( http://webpictures.homestead.com/return.html )  I could see a black band along the shoreline that looked much like the thick hordes of black flies at Mono Lake……………….

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Yup, that’s just what they were.  It’s a strange feeling, walking along the beach and seeing the flies frantically trying to escape.  Like a TV documentary, you walk along in about a 5 foot diameter sphere with the flies parting in front of you and landing back behind and creating a hazy fog around you.  They don’t bite, don’t land on you - never touch you……….amazing, but there are billions of them………………

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The algae that grows here stinks something awful, too.  Not much different from the hydrogen sulphide at Lassen Volcanic Park.  The only other thing that can live in this water are Brine Shrimp, same as Mono, again.  An attempt to walk out onto the nice “beach” quickly shows the error of your ways.  Remember me mentioning recently the fella who landed his plane on a dry lake that wasn’t so dry under the crust.  The top (north) end of Lake Aberts has miles of mudflats like this, as well as a rim of it all the way around and I couldn’t help thinking of that landing.  It’s very soft, very gooey when you break thru………..and it stinks……………….

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Coming further north, I spent the night in Burns, OR, then started off at around 9:30 AM this morning.  This is quite an area and I wasn’t really prepared.  Very soon - still in city limits - I hit a Swallow - or rather, it flew into the camper while I was going 45 mph.  End of Swallow.  Then, within 5 miles, I saw 6 Deer grazing away like cattle near the road.  Didn’t get pics of them, either, but approaching the small settlement of Seneca there were more kinds of birds than I’ve seen in one place, including Vultures, Bald Eagles, several kinds of Hawks, and many smaller species.  A few miles farther on something moved on the hillside.  Pronghorns ??, I wondered ??  A little farther on, I made a U-turn and went back for another look.  Yup, Pronghorn Antelope they were and didn’t like my attention, even tho’ they were ¼ mile away.  These are the fastest land animals in North America, and I read recently where they were once almost as common as Bison, millions of them, before market hunters almost wiped them out over a century ago………………

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Farther north, past the bustling little town of John Day, the highway climbs high into a huge volcanic caldera at Long Creek Summit.  Reminded me much of Valles Caldera near Santa Fe……………..

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Coming down the north side, the country goes like this for many, many miles.  All volcanic, all 3,000 to 5,000 feet elevation……….up one side and down the other, all day. Very nice country, tho’, and there are ranches all along.  This is really isolated living.  Look carefully at this shot and you’ll see the roof of a ranch house just about in the center.  Long way from nowhere, lots of privacy.  Fine for us grouchy old farts, but I wonder how the kids like it, way out there……………..

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Soon, in a valley, the North Fork of the John Day River.  Very pretty.  The very nice Ukiah/Dale campground is just downstream…………………

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When I get to the Columbia River, about 50 miles north of here, I plan to go downstream and cross at the John Day Dam.  On the AAA map, I saw a small highway with the dotted lines showing a scenic byway………and going just my way.  This was marked as Hwy 53 and crossed to Heppner, OR, then north.  Heppner ??  Who’s ever heard of Heppner ??  I’ll betcha can’t even find it on a map.  Prob’ly a couple of ranch houses across from each other.  This turned into quite a drive………..about 75 miles, all told, and went for miles thru wilderness.  From time to time there’d be huge meadows……………….

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Many, many mountains and lakes are passed.  Very nice country.  It was surprising.  This is the July 4th weekend and there was almost zero traffic on Hwy 395, a major north/south route.  Tiny little Hwy 53 was quite busy in comparison, with many families camped out for the weekend.  Neat, it looks great………………..

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What about Heppner ??  Coming down out of the mountains along a long, narrow canyon, suddenly there was a reservoir and town in front of me……………..

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The main town is behind that hill, but it turned out to be a major community hiding back here.  I was amazed, and sorry I didn’t stop at the top of the hill leading into town.  Traffic piled behind me, so I kept going.  Too bad, I was impressed.  Very nice community.  Here’s the town hall……………..

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………..and I guess you’d call this the town square……………….

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Agricultural town, yes, but much neater, tidier and cleaner than most.  Way back of nowhere.  Continue on to the breaks of the Columbia River…………volcanic all the way.  These hills are solid lava with only a thin skin of dirt.  The Columbia Gorge is famous for the wind that funnels up, and is popular with wind surfers as a result, but on a practical level, there are many wind turbines busily generating clean, quiet electricity, too………………..

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Finally, the mighty Columbia River………..and end of the trail for today.  It was 102º coming down the final slope today and not even a thought of camping out.  (boondocking)  Tonight I’m in a scruffy little campground high on the bluffs above Arlington, OR.  9:00 PM and it’s still 94º out there.  Sheesh………..what have I gotten into here ??  Air conditioner is roaring and when it shuts off, the dog - one of those miserable, useless little yap-hounds - next door is barking.  Oh, mercy………………

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Yup, I’ll be glad to get out of here in the morning.                 Lar.

Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
www.gogittum.com/blog

09-7-2 Lassen Volcanic Park


Once again I say, “what a day, eh ??”  Where on earth do I start ??  It’s about ½ tempting to write an auxiliary page to this one to cover all the bases.  Yesterday I spent driving - from Ely in eastern Nevada to just east of Lake Almanor in northern California.  Over 9 hours non-stop.  Found a clearing off a side road to camp in and spent a very nice evening - free.  In the morning, headed west and enjoyed the view of Mount Lassen above the wetlands of Lake Almanor…………..

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This was going across the causeway into the little town of Chester and there I found a prize - a small specialty coffee shop catering to upscale locals and no franchise involved.  These little outfits can be OK, or very, very good.  Seldom bad.  This’n is a goodie.  Coffee was great - and not a dark roast - I’m not a Starbuck’s fan - and a home made apple turnover.  Saved that for later and slurped up that great coffee very quickly.  Ahhhhh………..good start.  Then headed for the mountains.  Climbing higher, the scenery kept improving and what a change from the wonderful “redlands” of Utah.  This is high alpine volcanic mountain country…………….

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This was a major surprise for me.  I’d expected black volcanic lava flows and rock piles, as in New Mexico and Hawaii.  Nope, but this is still very active volcanic country and it didn’t keep me in suspense for long.  Checked in at the Ranger Station and came just a short distance into the park and right beside the road was a steam vent.  Pheeewww……….can you pronounce “hydrogen sulphide ??”  (rotten eggs).  This vent has bad breath…and is very hot…………….

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Right across the road, behind a chain link fence was a boiling mud pot.  No such thing as the “cold boiling” near the Salton Sea.  ( http://gogittum.com/blog/?cat=21 )  This thing is at a full rolling boil and is very dangerous…and it stinks………………..

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The highlight of the day was to be the hike into “Bumpass Hell.”  Parked in the large, scenic parking lot and started for the trail………and feasted my eyes on this big flower garden……………..

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Huge alpine meadows and rocky peaks.  This is more like my old home in northern Idaho……………….

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A close up view of mighty Mt. Lassen itself.  There’s a trail to the top that was tempting…………………

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The 1½ mile trail to Bumpass Hell starts off muddy and with stretches of compacted snow, but not really bad going…………….

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Very quickly, the trail leads around to a huge snowbank.  Climb that snowbank for a nice view of scenic Lake Helen.  The picnic area there is still buried in snow………….

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These signs gave me a little chuckle.  Haven’t figured out if it should be “Bum-Pass Hell,” or “Bump-Ass Hell.”  I slipped in mud once and snow once and landed on my a– both times, so maybe the 2nd, eh ??  Of course everyone ignored the red sign……………

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Now I came up with another anomaly.  Everyone’s heard about “don’t eat yellow snow,” right ??  What about pink snow ??  There was lots of this, all the way along and I was told it was from algae blooming.  Haven’t seen this since the Salton Sea a few years ago, and that’s a whole ‘nuther environment.  ( look at the 5th picture down - http://webpictures.homestead.com/salton.html ) ………………

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Finally, after a mile of easy but steady uphill the trail crests and you get your 1st view of the steam works.  Signs posted all round the area caution you to stay on the boardwalks.  The crust in some areas is very thin, the mud beneath is boiling.  Not good.  This can happen in dry lakes, too, without the boiling.  Several years ago a flying friend in AlbuQuirky, NM attempted a touch down on a dry lake in his 2 seater - with his 12 year old son on board.  The surface of the dry lake was dry - an inch below was not.  The plane broke thru, the wheels stuck in the mud and the plane flipped on its’ back.  Father and son were fine, (the plane was not) but the lesson is taken.  Stay off thin crusts………………

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To get closer was interesting.  The above picture was taken from a section of trail that was thick, gooey mud (yes, I do have a pic of it) and I slipped and fell on my butt - the 1st time.  Then to get down there, had to work my way down a long, steep stretch of fairly compacted snow.  Landed on my butt the 2nd time.  This area is all topsy turvy……..I imagine from snow loads in the winter time, but it sure looks odd now…………..

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At the bottom, the steaming vents are far larger than I expected…………….

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The “pond” below it has been checked at 322º F………one of the hottest in the world.  The whole area stinks of hydrogen sulphide and the little creek that flows away not only stinks, but is just the perfect temperature for a hot tub.  I was Very Careful in testing it………………

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Farther along, more ponds are boiling away, but not quite so hot.  Still wouldn’t do you much good to fall in……………….

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Another vent sends smelly steam across the boardwalk…………………

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The creek flowing out is the most messed up I’ve ever seen.  There’s mud, silt, rock, soil, flowers, trees, algae, (several colors) bacteria, (several colors) weeds and grass……and more mud……and hydrogen sulphide…………….

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Coming back out, I passed this rock slide that I’d completely missed on the way in.  There were few people in here while I was here, but coming out I passed hordes on their way in.  While waiting - for the umpteenth time - for someone to go past (don’t bet on them waiting for you) - I looked up from where my hand was braced and saw this.  How do you miss something like this ??  If one of those slipped………………..

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I had gone in at 10:00 AM and come out at 1:15 PM.  The difference was night and day.  It was jammed with people on my return.  I was told it’s because of the approaching July 4th weekend, even tho’ this is only Thursday.  The parking lot for the Mt. Lassen summit climb was packed, so I by-passed that.  I was also looking forward to the big waterfall on King Creek and the parking areas on both sides of the road were plugged with cars.  Phooey.  Headed on out.  On the way, I was treated to the reverse scene of the early morning.  Here’s Lake Almanor from Mt Lassen…….and speaking of Almanor, now was the time for that apple turnover that I’d saved from this morning.  I think I’ll go and kidnap the cook - that turnover was wonderful and I was hungry.  It really hit the spot………………

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Well, I gotta call a halt to this or go all night.  From here I went to the “Subway” lava tube/cave near Old Station, then to Burney Falls not too far ahead.  Both were neat, both have pictures, but this page is plenty big already.                             Lar.

Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
www.gogittum.com/blog

09-6-30 Bryce Canyon


What a day………and what an impossible task I’ve set myself.  Today I hiked 3 miles on a loop trail down into Bryce Canyon and back up.  Took Many, Many pictures on the way, of course.  Now………how do I choose which of several 100 shots to put on this page ??  I rode the shuttle bus into the canyon and got off at Sunrise Viewpoint.  Walk to the overlook and it about takes your breath away.  If you haven’t seen Bryce Canyon pictures before, you may not believe it.  The colors are insane.  This shot shows the beginning of the trail down the descent for the Navajo Loop/Queens Garden trails, a combined 3 mile loop down into the canyon and back up and out the other side…………

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You go Waaaay down and thru the big slot canyon just right of center here……………..

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I wasn’t fooling about waaaaay down……………..

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There were hordes of people……….mostly German tourists, but a few others in the mix, too.  For some reason I really enjoy slot canyons.  Neat……………

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Everyone got along fine and there were lots of smiles back and forth and expressions of awe.  This big Ponderosa Pine had somehow gotten a roothold down here and was the object of a lot of admiration……….and many photographs.  The reflected colors are great……………..

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Back into the light of day at the bottom, you’re immediately hit with the new perspective……………..

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To me, this looked like E.T. (does anyone remember him ??) looking down at us………………

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I’m skipping a lot here because there just isn’t space.  Starting up out of the canyon it just kept getting better………………

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Much higher now, we’re getting into an area where you can see between the “fins” of rock.  The white formations have an almost translucent quality to them, as tho’ they’re mad of white glass.  How many superlatives can I use ??  It’s a wonderful hike………………

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Like a fairyland…………

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How’s that for a nutshell tour of Bryce Canyon ??  It’d be real easy to use 100 or more pictures.  Coming west from Bryce, I’d been told to watch for Red Rock Canyon and it was great, too, including the 3 tunnels.  From there I went south and then across the mountains to Cedar City, UT over a 9700 foot pass that was a tremendous ride its’ ownself.  Just not enuf space, but could put in a lot of pics just from that’n, too.  What a day.  Tomorrow will be driving all day across Nevada and to Lassen Volcanic Park in north central California.  This is Tuesday………..should be in Lassen on Thursday.                          Lar.


Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
www.gogittum.com/blog