09-7-12 Chatterbox Falls
I’ve been dragging my feet on this one, and I think it may be because I went way overboard on pictures. Generally, I’ll take 150 - 200 shots on a really good day. Today I shot 537 pictures - a personal record for 1 day, slightly edging out 700 in 1½ days at Bosque del Apache, New Mexico 1½ years ago. Dredging thru this mountain of stuff, trying to decide what and which to use was daunting. Finally, today - 7/26 - I just cut thru the b.s. and started editing. Let’s see how it works out.
The new Canadian Topo program for the Garmin GPSmap60CSx works out well, but I’m finding the software awkward to use. Here’s the trail of my day’s adventure. In the lower left, the little line under the “5 mi” represents 5 miles on the map. Altogether about 40 miles each way, from Egmont - a very scenic little town - to Chatterbox Falls, back past Egmont to Skookumchuck Narrows Rapids and then back to Egmont……………….
In 1973, my ex-wife-to-be and I flew to Vancouver, B.C. to meet my Uncle Dick and he drove us to Garden Bay on the Sechelt (See-SHELt) Peninsula - the Sunshine Coast - then up Agamemnon Channel and to Vancouver Bay in his 21ft boat. It’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen, the Oysters and Clams were thick on the beach and large, feisty Dungeness Crabs were just offshore. We ate high on the hog and had a wonderful time. Now, 36 years later, I finally returned. Great memories, and much water under the bridge.
So……..start from the scenic little town of Egmont and start north thru the Prince of Wales Reach of Jervis Inlet. The B.C. coast is laced with these fjords and scenery is spectacular. Here’s the Garmin. Skookumchuck Rapids is just above Doriston, Vancouver Bay about center on right side…………….
Looking at maps is neat and I love ‘em but nothing equals the real thing. Here’s Prince of Wales Reach, looking pretty much north. (I’m very sure the Garmin labeling is in error. According to Canadian Gov’t mapping, Princess Louisa Inlet is the one with Chatterbox Falls at the end)………………
As I started up the channel, I looked back and saw a large cruise ship coming from the direction of the Strait of Georgia to the west. No way I wanted this crowd to get ahead of me, so put the throttle forward and went for it……………….
Miles later, I made the right turn and headed northeast into Princess Royal Reach. Well on the way now, and it’s gorgeous. As you go north and east, the mountains slowly get larger and steeper and more ice fields (glaciers) show…………….
There are many aquaculture operations in these fjords all the way up the coast and they’re the subject of much controversy and squabbling. Commercial operations are all in favor of anything that’ll make ‘em a buck and the tree huggers and fish kissers want everything the way it was 200 years ago. Neither is realistic and both sides lie thru their teeth trying to force their opinions on everyone else. So far, reason and a moderate balance seem to prevail - to my eyes, at least. This one is a Salmon raising facility……………
The end of Princess Royal Reach, with Deserted Bay just out of sight on the right……………
Around the corner and starting up Queen’s Reach. It just keeps getting better. This is a typical rocky shoreline and the waters are very deep here, and very cold - about 49º F. Brrrr……………….
Now the end of the journey is in sight, but the fun has just begun. See the Malibu Inlet ??……………..
The far north end of Jervis Inlet. I never thought I’d ever get to this country and now the great little Dustbuster has brought me here. Wonderful……………..
Swing to the right now, tho’, and there’s the narrow little entrance to the Malibu. I was repeatedly warned about the vicious rapids here on a strong tide and was a little (??) apprehensive. I’d carefully timed this to go thru on a slack tide. The large, modern resort was a surprise, and it was crowded. You must go around the island in the center and both sides are full of rocks. Great caution is needed, even on slack tide…………….
I’d love to see this on a full running tide………..from the restaurant. This is about as slack a current as you’ll ever see here. Lookit the crowd of people, way up here…………..
OK, deep into Princess Louisa Inlet and the gov’t park here. This is a textbook fjord - steep, narrow, deep and beautiful. Just - around - the - next - corner……………..
……..is Chatterbox Falls. There’s actually creeks and waterfalls everywhere and it’s very high and very steep. What an eyeful to come around to, eh ??……………..
Chatterbox Falls itself is actually just the lower section at lower right of the above picture. Many people were playing here and it’s a very popular stop for yachtsmen. I saw no other boats like mine. Actually, I never see other boats like mine in country like this. It’s very remote. This is why I have a kicker motor, in case of main engine failure and I watch the weather very closely……………..
After a long, lingering look and a cruise around the area, I started away and took a look back. Wonderful…………..
Time now to hit it…………..
The tides wait for no man and the entrance at Malibu Inlet is starting to pick up…………….
Adventures weren’t quite over. Remember the “cruise ship ??” Here it came, already, but it’s not a typical cruise ship……………..
Unless I’m very mistaken, I believe this is the floating condo palace for the very rich. It cruises leisurely around the world and residents come and go as they please, with some apparently living on board full time in opulent luxury. What a life, eh ?? It looks well equipped with lots of toys, too……………….
On the way back, the wind kicked up in the Princess Royal Reach and made for some bumpy and wet running. This is fine, tho’ - Dustbuster is only 16 ft, but is very beamy and deep with a high bow, good entry, well flared sides and is very heavy - punches right thru a lot worse than this with no fuss……………
I can’t resist. I took many pictures of Vancouver Bay and have to include one here. What wonderful memories. There’s a couple of homes here now, but it’s still gorgeous and there’re still Oysters on the beach………………
Returning to home port, I by-passed Egmont and went into the infamous Skookumchuck Rapids, but that’s another story. Lar.
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Larry Bourne
Santa Fe, NM
www.gogittum.com
www.gogittum.com/blog
Posted: July 28th, 2009 under 09 Vacation, 09-7-12 Chatterbox Falls.
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